Exploring the Canadian Rockies and Banff with Family

This past summer, we celebrated my parents’ 50th wedding anniversary with a multi-generational trip to Banff in Alberta, Canada. This was a destination we had all wanted to visit for a while, and it proved to be fantastic for all the varying age groups and physical abilities in our party (ranging from ten months old to 70-somethings). It was also an easy direct flight from Dulles International Airport in Northern Virginia to Calgary, making it all the more appealing.

Banff is simply gorgeous. The crisp aqua waters with the backdrop of the Canadian Rockies feel like a movie set or an AI-generated image. It is such an easy vacation without needing to cross an ocean or manage complicated logistics. The itinerary described below covers a five-night trip in August 2026.

Practical Takeaways

• I usually think of U.S. National Parks, like Zion or Bryce, as difficult to get to and far from major airports, but direct flights to Calgary and a short 90-minute drive from the airport to Banff made the Canadian Rockies easy to access.
• Book everything in advance! Banff has a brief two-month window of warm weather in July and August, which means summer visits coincide with peak crowds. There isn’t much of a shoulder season without crowds, but don’t let that scare you off; it’s absolutely worth visiting with some advance planning to secure reservations at sought-after sites like Lake Louise, the Banff Gondola, and other popular tours.
• I spent the weeks leading up to the trip checking weather and smoke conditions due to a wildfire 500 miles west, but I wish I could take back that anxiety. Wildfires and smoke are an increasingly common summer reality around Banff, so it’s best to expect them as part of the experience. Some days the smoke blocked views of nearby mountains, while other days brought clear blue skies depending on the wind. As for weather, while it was 100 degrees back home, we were wearing fleeces in Banff, so pack layers and enjoy the break from summer heat.

Where we stayed in Banff

We were fortunate to stay at the Moose Hotel & Suites, which is in a prime location just two blocks from the hustle and bustle of downtown. It features a Roam bus stop right out front with free bus tickets provided, as well as an underground parking garage.

In my kids’ opinion, the best amenities are the two large rooftop hot tubs and the indoor pool. They offer fantastic views of the Rockies and make for a great end to an active day.

Activities in and around Banff

Johnston Canyon: This trail lives up to the hype, featuring a unique boardwalk built along the cliffside overlooking the river and falls. We hiked to the upper falls (a three-mile round trip) which was the perfect distance for our group. However, as one of the most accessible and popular hikes in Banff, it gets very crowded.

Arriving at 8:30 AM landed us one of the last spots in the lower parking lot (P2), and by the time we returned from the upper falls, traffic was single-file most of the way back. We recommend going as early as possible to beat the crowds. You can also take a public bus from downtown Banff to avoid the parking hassle, though you will share the trail with fellow bus and tour groups. This is a must-see, but definitely requires a plan.

Banff Farmers Market (10-6): If you are in Banff on a Wednesday, stop by the Banff Farmers Market. It features food and craft stalls in a gorgeous setting along the Bow River with views of the Rockies. Be sure to pick up some local cherries!

Float ride in Canmore: This guided river float was a serene, relaxing way to orient ourselves on day one. Our guide was very knowledgeable as we drifted along the Bow River. Although smoke obscured mountain views on our trip, we still thoroughly enjoyed the experience.

Canoeing at Emerald Lake in Yoho National Park: This was my favorite activity of the trip. The scenery is unreal and we were lucky to have a clear, smoke-free day. We arrived around 10:15am and secured parking near the entrance. Canoe rentals start at 10:00am, so we waited about 45 minutes for the first rowers of the day to return.

The park entrance gets crowded with tour buses and visitors, but once out on the water in a canoe, all the noise fades away as you paddle the vibrant emerald water.

After canoeing, we ate at Cilantro, the restaurant in the park. This was one of my few regrets: while the setting is magnificent, the food was disappointing and overpriced. We recommend packing a picnic lunch to enjoy on the park benches instead.

Afterward, we took a walk along the loop trail surrounding the lake. This gets you away from the crowded entrance area to scenic shorelines dotted with purple fireweed flowers. Give yourself time for this walk as it is spectacular.

Lake Minnewanka cruise – The Lake Minnewanka Cruise is an easy outing for all ages, from the baby to the grandparents. Like the float tour, it provides a great orientation to the area with an informative guide. Though hazy skies reduced visibility during our cruise, it remained a pleasant outing.

Banff gondola – Another popular multi-generational hit was the Banff Gondola. Everyone enjoyed the ride up Sulphur Mountain, which accommodated our stroller easily and offered a great spot for the baby’s nap.

The top features incredible views and a short boardwalk trail. We experienced clear skies in one direction and dramatic fog in the other against the backdrop of the Rockies.

There are two dining options atop Sulphur Mountain: Northern Lights (a buffet) and Sky Bistro (a sit-down restaurant requiring reservations). We splurged on Sky Bistro to celebrate the anniversary, and it ended up being one of our favorite meals of the trip. The food was amazing. I loved the Alpine Tagliatelle, and the kids devoured the seasonal pappardelle. And the table views were unbeatable. Highly recommended for a special meal!

Rent bikes: This was my husband’s favorite activity. We rented bikes from Banff Cycle, where staff recommended a 5-mile loop around the Banff Springs Golf Course. The route passes the scenic (and busy) Bow Falls before entering the quieter Banff Springs property. While open to vehicle traffic, the road was virtually empty except for a few maintenance vehicles. It was one of our most peaceful experiences, biking along the Bow River and past wildlife, including elk. We found a spectacular lookout spot to pause and enjoy private views of the landscape. While mostly flat, a few uphill sections made us think e-bikes would also be a great choice.

Lake Moraine and Lake Louise: These flagship lakes in Banff National Park are stunning in person. Visiting requires planning due to restricted personal vehicle access and limited parking. We booked Parks Canada shuttle tickets when they launched in April, which requires logging on right as sales open (shout out to my brother-in-law for handling that stressful task). Private shuttle operators are also available if official tickets sell out. Our first stop was Moraine Lake, where we hiked the Rockpile Trail near the entrance. Because it is so accessible, it gets quite crowded, making clear photos a challenge. However, the views are stunning.

To celebrate my parents’ 50th anniversary, we booked afternoon tea at the luxurious Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. This was a highlight of the trip. Not only did it offer a wonderful tea service, but it gave us access to the hotel grounds and sweeping lake views from both the dining room and outdoor gardens.

Beyond the hotel grounds, the public lake trail offers gorgeous views alongside fellow visitors taking in the scenery. Some of us dipped our toes into the icy glacial waters while watching brave swimmers jump in. Lake Louise is well worth the transportation logistics, and dining or staying at the Fairmont is highly recommended if you can.

Restaurants

Farm and Fire – On our first night, we dined at Farm and Fire. Although initially surprised that it was located inside a hotel lobby, the food exceeded expectations. The pizzas (especially the bacon and apple) and the tomato burrata salad were standout dishes.

Bear Street Tavern & Three Bears Brewery – Both spots offered great pizza, craft beer, and comfortable seating for large groups.

Hello Sunshine – For a change of pace from pizza and beer, we had fantastic sushi here. The BBQ Salmon roll was particularly memorable.

Helpful Hints

• A word about bear spray: Most guides recommend carrying bear spray on trails. Since airline regulations prohibit carrying it on flights, we planned to rent or purchase it locally. We found though that our hotel offered rentals where you only pay if the canister is discharged. Staff noted that canisters are rarely used, and while we saw bears from our car, we encountered none on busy trails. Check with your hotel about rental options before buying.
• Downtown Banff has a convenient grocery store for stocking up on breakfast foods and snacks, making mornings easier.
• For additional lodging options, nearby Canmore offers a quieter, residential feel with vacation rentals a short drive from Banff.
• While our 5-night trip focused entirely on Banff, adding the Icefields Parkway or Jasper North makes a great extension for longer itineraries.
• You can also tack on an extra day in Calgary, Canada’s third largest city, as my parents did. They particularly enjoyed a guided tour to the Royal Tyrell Museum of Paelentology in Drumheller, which houses one of the world’s pre-eminent collections of dinosaur specimens and is located about an hour and a half east of Calgary in the scenic Canadian Badlands.